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APPLICATION GUIDE FOR FLAT ROOF SYSTEMS


THIS DOCUMENT IS INTENDED AS AN ADDENDUM TO THE MASTER GUIDE SPECIFICATION SHEETS. ALWAYS REFER TO THE APPROPRIATE MASTER GUIDE SPECIFICATION FOR DETAILED APPLICATION PROCEDURES.

Please use these pages as guidelines or “tips” for common scenarios faced with flat roof systems. The majority of this document applies to all Tough Stuff products. Specific product characteristics are noted where applicable.

TOOLS
THINNING
MIXING
THICKENERS
FLASHING TIPS
ROUND STACKS
TIPS FOR APPLYING LINER ON FLAT AREAS
INSTALLATION OF AN INVERTED BALLAST
VENTING
LINED VS. UNLINED SYSTEMS ON FLAT ROOFS
COLD WEATHER APPLICATIONS
APPLICATIONS OVER CONCRETE
RECOAT WINDOWS
FLAT SYSTEM FINISHING TIPS
RELATED DOCUMENTS

TOOLSup.gif

SQUEEGEES:

  • When applying Tough Stuff products, notched squeegees are necessary to dictate coverage and control millage. Generally, a blade with 3/16” notches will yield 2 gallons per 100 square feet, and the notched 1/8” blade will yield 1.5 gallons per 100 square feet. We recommend the 3/16” for applying the base coat, and the 1/8” for the mid and finish coats.

    There are several other advantages to this system: The squeegee will not pull up liner as a roller will. Material can be spread evenly when cold or stiff. The squeegee speeds applications since the product is poured out instead of being dipped out of the bucket. Finish coat applications can be as fast as spraying with this system.

SCISSORS:

  • A top grade scissors, such as Fiskers brand, is absolutely necessary to cut the polyester liners easily. Cheap scissors or roofing knives will stretch and pull the material while cutting and make application twice as difficult. Without a doubt, these scissors are absolutely necessary. They are available at most hardware stores and office supply stores.

THINNINGup.gif

  • Thinning is not recommended with any Tough Stuff products. The products are shipped in ready-to-use concentrations.

MIXING:up.gif

  • Some settling may occur during shipping and storage. In order to properly mix and catalyze the products before use, you should use an 8-10 amp mixer spinning at 350 to 500 revolutions per minute. A rectangular plaster paddle, not a round spiral one, is necessary to properly spin the material. A higher speed mixer can use the propeller type blade. This should have 750 RPM capacity. Pay attention to bring the product from the bottom of the pail up into the solution.


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18" & 24" squeegees with replacement blades.



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Carpet roller, 1 1/4 " roller, rubber trowel, brush & scissors.



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8 amp, 350 rpm mixer and paddle (minimum).



THICKENERSup.gif

Thickeners can be added to all Tough Stuff urethanes, acrylics, silicones and butyl to create a mastic consistency. This helps greatly in rough areas or when filling is desired. Two thickeners are available:

D200:

  • This is an extra fine polyethylene fiber that gives a smooth, whipped cream-like consistency to the thickened coating. The thickened material can be applied either with a brush or a rubber trowel and is very easy to apply. The D200 benefits the contractor by reducing labor costs on tough applications.

D210:

  • This is a hollow ceramic additive that is used as an extender for the urethanes to lower applied costs. The filler can be added 50/50 without changing viscosity. Use UR2550 urethane when filling thick areas such as backs of machine curbs, alligatored areas, etc.

FLASHING TIPSup.gif
Flashing with urethanes or any coating can be tricky. The following procedure will greatly simplify the job and give you superior results.


WALLS:

  1. Roll the coating onto the wall at approximately 1.0 gallon per 100 square feet and allow to get tacky (about 10 minutes). At this point the coating will be acting as an adhesive.

  2. Stick the precut flashing liner into place approximately three (3) feet at a time and press it into the urethane with a dry brush or your hands. A good method is to guide the material with your dominant hand while keeping the roll of liner in your opposite hand as you go. At this point, leave the material in place until the urethane sets (approximately 30 minutes).

  3. After the first coat has set, a second coat is applied at approximately 1.5 gallons per 100 square feet over the first layer. Apply the material with a wet brush to push the coating through the liner and squeeze out excess air trapped under the liner

  4. Allow to set another 30 minutes, then finish with an additional coat at 1.0 gallon per 100 square feet.

    Note: Two component urethanes set quickly which can alleviate this problem.


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Trowel mastic around stack to fill gap and make a cant to set liner. D200 is added to make a cant.


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Stacks ready for flashing


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Apply roller coat around stack to set optional fabric


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Pre-cut half moon into fabric to fit pipe and set in wet material. Note: Pat & move liner with ball of fabric and dispose ball when tacky.


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Second piece overlaps first by 3-4 inches.

 

ROUND STACKS:up.gif

OPTION A

  1. Cut a half moon in flashing fabric with the same diameter of the stack on 2 rectangular or square pieces (one for each side of pipe).

  2. Apply the coating to the pipe and allow it to get tacky. All Tough Stuff products are acceptable for this purpose with the exception of the acrylics. The BU8000 butyl has especially strong properties for this application.

  3. Apply the fabric to the base of the pipe and snug the material up the pipe approximately 1 inch. Repeat the procedure on the other side of the pipe.

  4. Brush in material with a wet brush and set material to remove wrinkles.

  5. Finish stack with a 6 strip of liner that laps over the 1 fabric at the base.

  6. After all has set, finish with an additional coat at 1 gallon per 100 square feet and brush into place.

OPTION B:

  1. Fabricate a cant, brush applying 2 coats of urethane thickened with D200 around the base and up the projection at least 8 inches.

  2. This method may use more material, but will lower labor.

TIPS FOR APPLYING LINER ON FLAT AREASup.gif

A three man crew works best by sharing the tasks as follows:

FIRST MAN - is the set man who keeps the roll straight and tight and cuts it to fit

SECOND MAN - pours the material on the liner, mixes the bucket, and back rolls the finished sections.

THIRD MAN - spreads the material into the liner with the squeegee. Two component urethanes should have a fourth man just mixing the material.

  1. Apply a roller coat approximately 12 around the perimeter of the roof. This is to give a sticky base at the edges that will hold the material in place and stop the wind from blowing the fabric around.

  2. Set the roll of liner in place and roll out approximately 10 feet to straighten the fabric.

  3. Pour out a moderate amount of material in a puddle at the front of the roll and pull the puddle toward you while standing on the dry part of the liner. Pay special attention to evenly saturate the liner. If you apply this step too fast or too thin, the fabric will not fully adhere to the substrate. The 3/16 notched squeegee will give you 2-3 gallons per 100 square feet on this step.

  4. Keep the roll within 10 of the applicator and snug it up with each extension. This is to prevent wind from picking up the material and also to help pull out wrinkles.

  5. After material has soaked through the fabric, approximately 3 minutes, the liner can be back rolled to further level out the urethane and pull out wrinkles. Back rolling should be done at a diagonal to the direction of the liner and not directly across the fabric. This will prevent the roller from pushing the fabric in one direction. After the liner has set well enough to walk on (refer to specific Product Data sheets for drying times) apply the finish coat. Colder weather will slow the cure time.

Note: Rougher areas will require the liner to be set in a scrape coat of the urethane. In this application, pull out a thin layer with the squeegee in front of the roll.

If there is some settling of the black urethane, pre-mix the material prior to catalyzing. Two component urethanes must be mixed a minimum of 4 minutes WITH A TIMER to avoid inconsistency, If the mixer breaks down, an alternative system would be to use a short length of 2 x 4 to stir up the bottom, then box the material back and forth into an empty can at least 20 times. All other products require just enough mixing to bring the product form the bottom of the pail up into solution.


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Saturate liner with top coat



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Catch lower base flashing at least 1" with a 6" piece wrapping around the entire pipe.



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Application of liner - Pour out a puddle a few feet from the edge.



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Start roll by pushing the material to the outside edge. Note that the perimeter has been flashed and is still wet.This gives an edge to stick the liner in and hold tight while lining up.



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INSTALLATION OF AN INVERTED BALLASTup.gif

Georgia Pacific Dens-deck 1/2" or 1/2" brown exterior waterproof gypsum:
  • The outside 6 feet from the edge around the entire roof perimeter will have 1 screw and plate every 3 square feet. The balance of the roof will have a minimum 6 fasteners per sheet spaced 6 from the edge of the board at the comers. The board may require more screws if the seams dont line up tight. Screws must be FM-rated fluorocarbon treated and the plates must be galvanized.


VENTING:up.gif


Install baffled and insulated storm vents around the perimeter at 5 feet from outside edges plus the height of the parapet. For example, a 2 parapet would move the vents to 7 feet from the edge. Space the vents every 50 or center them in the walls on smaller roofs. Venting for storm protection will only be effective on the outside walls facing the wind. Moisture relief is also most effective at these locations. This venting is required on all inverted ballast and insulated systems when going over an existing roof.


OTHER INSULATION:
Install to a minimum FM I-60 rating or lay loose under the inverted ballast.

LINED VS. UNLINED SYSTEMS ON FLAT ROOFSup.gif

LINED SYSTEMS:
Generally, a liner is required on all roofing applications. There are several reasons for this:

  1. A liner doubles the tensile strength of the system and equalizes, or distributes, stress points throughout a larger area of the system.

  2. A liner ensures even millage since the fabric prevents the coating from flowing to low spots. To get the same even millage without a liner would require 3 coats and the extra labor may end up costing more than the liner.

  3. A liner levels out the roughness of the roof and can, in many cases, be applied with less material per 100 square feet than if the system was unlined.


UNLINED SYSTEMS:
Unlined systems are good for applications over metal, concrete, and good condition smooth BUR & cap sheet although cracks and some seams still must be lined. Applications over existing single ply and modified bitumen roofs will probably not require a liner, although the joints and seams must be checked carefully and reinforced where needed. This is also an option when the existing system is extremely difficult or has a rough surface such as a graveled BUR over concrete on top of a silo. On these roofs, a trade is made by using more material instead of less labor.

Generally, the unlined systems are an economical alternative and should be sold as a five (5) year warranty with the contractor covering labor. There is no charge for this warranty. Normal parameters are as follows:

  • 3-4 gallons per 100 square feet in two coats for a 50 mil theoretical coverage.

  • 10 year unlined systems require 4-4.5 gallons per 100 square feet in three coats for 65 mil theoretical coverage.

  • Rough surfaces can take more material. Gravel roofs should be figured at 6-8 gallons per 100 square feet.



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Outside 4x12 sheet has 14 plates minimum. Second sheet has plates every 4 square feet. Balance of roof to get 1 plate every 6 square feet



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Set flashing in wet material and turn fabric into gutter approximately 1".



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Roll top coat.



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Use roller to set fabric in gutter.


COLD WEATHER APPLICATIONSup.gif

TWO COMPONENT URETHANES AND SILICONES:

Always store the catalyzing agent of the two component urethanes and SL6000 silicone in a heated area. Once the agent is mixed into Part A, the material should be applied at temperatures above 32F. Set and cure times will be noticeably slower in colder weather.

ONE COMPONENT URETHANES, BUTYL AND PRIMERS:

    Tough Stuff one component urethanes, butyl and primers (with the exception of the PR3500 water based primer) work well in cold weather but may stiffen up when used below 40F.

ACRYLICS:

    Acrylics should only be used in temperatures above 50°F.

The most important thing to make sure of when working under freezing conditions is to make sure the surface to be coated is dry. It may be difficult to tell if the surface is frozen. The most obvious indication of failure in a system applied over ice would be blistering and loss of adhesion to the substrate. Applications over new insulation or dry surfaces will not have this problem. Always contact Coatings International for advice when confronting difficult application situations.


APPLICATIONS OVER CONCRETEup.gif

Concrete absorbs moisture from the air and can outgas under certain conditions. If this happens, the coating will blister excessively. Several steps are necessary to prevent this problem.

  1. Prime with PR3500 Epoxy Primer and allow to set until dry to the touch. A second coat of PR3500 will be necessary on areas that look dry.

  2. Apply finish coats in the late afternoon, especially when in direct sunlight. If blistering does occur, the best solution is to treat them when they occur. Solvent melting the blisters with straight MEK is the most effective way to fix the problem areas.

  3. You can walk on the semi-cured material with spiked shoes (like golf shoes), pour on a liberal amount of MEK, and brush around with a soft broom or roller. The thinned material is not as susceptible to blistering.

Although outgassing will not always happen, when it does - it is a disaster. These preventive measures should be considered mandatory.



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Gap at edge is filled with mastic grade urethane.



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Edge is rolled with a tack coat.



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Liner is set to make transition.



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Material is patted into place and wrinkles are removed

RECOAT WINDOWSup.gif

ALWAYS REFER TO THE INTERCOAT WINDOW PRIOR TO INSTALLATION OF ANY COATING.

Intercoat (Recoat) Windows are specified in:

  1. All Master Guide Specification documents
  2. The Application & Warranty Estimating Guide

FLAT SYSTEM FINISHING TIPSup.gif

Finishing with three men will require two roller setup men because the back rolling is slower than the squeegee step. Following these procedures will ensure a smooth application.

  1. Apply the finish roller coat on flashings and edges and back brush smooth.

  2. Start finishing the body of the roof, starting at the high end, by pouring out a large strip of urethane at the very top.

  3. Pull out the material downhill with the 1/8 notched squeegee walking back and forth across the top.

  4. After about 3 or 4 passes the section should be back rolled before proceeding. This area should cover as far as you can reach with an extension pole and roller setup.

  5. Repeat procedure until the roof is covered. This step should use 1.5 - 2.0 gallons/100 square feet.

  6. UR1700, UR1900, SL6000 and BU8000 are available in white or gray. AC5000, AC5900 are available in all colors.

For specifications and material requirements, contact Coatings International or consult the product specifications.

Revised April 2000


FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, GO TO:up.gif

See also:

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Squeegees pull the puddle toward the roll and pull out wrinkles.



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Applicator stands on dry liner without getting messy.



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Fabric is lapped a minimum 3" to the red line.



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Roof is finished by applying a second coat perpendicular to the first. This step is backrolled for maximum leveling.